Can There be Three Kings of Ultra Thin Watches?


Picture: Richard Mille

In a 12 months that noticed the introduction of the thinnest-ever mechanical wristwatch within the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, we now have a brand new king of skinny stylish: the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. While you add the Piaget Altiplano Final Idea, you end up with a trio of watches which might be bewildering. If you happen to have a look at all of them collectively in profile, you’ll (most likely) end up scratching your head attempting to determine which one is the thinnest, whereas being amazed that these are all working watches; now we have seen each the Piaget and Bvlgari examples up shut and might affirm that they’re fairly actual. Our flip will include this RM UP-01 Ferrari too.

In all seriousness, you’ll need callipers or another skilled measurement instrument to get the story on the variations in specs between the RM UP-01 Ferrari, Bvlgari Ultra and Piaget Altiplano Final Idea. One factor we are able to say for sure is that this combat is much from over, despite the fact that we referred to as it for Bvlgari with the Extremely. So, how skinny are you able to go together with a mechanical watch? Allow us to undergo the salient specs for the RM UP-01 first. About that title, though the press notes don’t spell it out, it appears possible that UP stands for Extremely Plat, which is French for extremely flat. Most crucially, the watch is simply 1.75mm thick, simply 0.05mm thinner than the Bvlgari; the Bvlgari Extremely itself bested the Piaget Altiplano Final Idea (AUC for brief) by 0.20mm. That quantity, by the best way, is the thickness of the sapphire crystal on the AUC.

Richard Mille, RM UP-01 FerrariRichard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. Picture: Richard Mille
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate ConceptPiaget Altiplano Final Idea. Picture: Piaget
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo UltraBvlgari Octo Finissimo Extremely. Picture: Bvlgari

We confess to being a bit much less blindsided than most on the looks of this marvel from Richard Mille. Rumours have been swirling at the same time as Bvlgari took its flip within the highlight, however we didn’t anticipate the watch to drop fairly so out of the blue. To be truthful right here, Richard Mille just isn’t recognized for its flat watches — the alternative if something, though the manufacture does boast plenty of ultra-light watches. Actually, the concept of constructing a superlight watch that was additionally ultra-thin, and as sturdy as mechanically attainable has crammed the editorial group right here with enthusiasm for years. Within the context of Richard Mille and Ferrari, the analogy right here will be discovered on the racetrack. In different phrases, the RM UP-01 Ferrari is the equal of the fattest, lightest and hardest racing tyre.

Picture: Richard Mille

On that notice, the RM UP-01 is a watch with a motion and a case, in contrast to its Piaget and Bvlgari friends. This was achieved to offer a measure of stability and to make water-resistance a actuality — it is just 10m right here however that’s nonetheless unbelievable. By the use of comparability, the Bvlgari Extremely has the identical water-resistance ranking (by the manufacture) whereas Piaget makes no guarantees in any respect about this. For the document, the uncovered gears of each the Extremely and the RM UP-01 prompts us to counsel that the watches must be evaded moisture. Some specialists counsel that 10m water-resistance just isn’t even splash-resistant, however we doubt anybody goes to check these watches.

Picture: Piaget

On that notice about uncovered gears, the RM UP-01 has two apertures on the entrance of the watch (actually a large bezel framing the time indicator and the uncovered escapement) that function a operate selector (winding and time-setting) and a way to set and wind the watch; calibre RMUP-01 is manual-wind, and might stand up to greater than 5,000 Gs of acceleration. Richard Mille calls these apertures crowns, and it operate that method for certain. Nevertheless, as Watchfinder & Co notes, they’re extra just like the particular programs tha pocket watches as soon as used to wind and set the time previous to Adrien Philippe (of Patek Philippe) inventing the keyless works, and thus introducing the world to the crown.

The official press notes for the watch don’t embody any notes about particular instruments wanted to work these controls, but it surely appears possible. Actually, this appears probably the most logical clarification for the way Richard Mille managed to get the watch be waterproof. Little doubt there will probably be numerous debates about whether or not Richard Mille is utilizing crowns right here or not, however this results in some key differentiating factors between the three kings of extremely skinny watches.

Bvlgari Ultra ThinPicture: Bvlgari

For classicists preferring their watches spherical and with a crown, even when that crown is a telescopic marvel of up to date expertise, then the AUC is the thinnest wristwatch. For individuals who really feel like a watch wants a correct case and motion, distinct from one another, and the notional potential to really be worn, then the RM UP-01 is the thinnest wristwatch. As for the Extremely, it’s the true uncrowned champion of extremely skinny watches. We like this fashion of taking a look at issues as a result of it permits every of the three watches (every one an distinctive work of horological artwork, regardless of which method you slice it) to shine.

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